Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of north London.
The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The honour has made the family utterly astonished.
“I am completely shocked,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.
This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.
However, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.
It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.
The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.
Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.
It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.
A seasoned journalist specializing in luxury arts and culture, with over a decade of experience covering global trends.